墨西哥城市一瞥

A glimpse of Mexico City

19世纪初最伟大的博物学家亚历山大·洪堡（Alexander von Humboldt）在考察过三面环山、气候宜人的墨西哥城之后，给出的评语是：“最明净的地区”。墨西哥的国宝作家卡洛斯·富恩特斯（Carlos Fuentes）的长篇小说处女作就以此为名，但显然不是要为洪堡的评语作注；他甚至在结尾处写道：“我们命中注定要待在这里。我们对此无能为力。”与生俱来的明净与历史沉积的混沌，注定墨西哥城充满着小说一般的张力，也成为孕育其文艺之都的源泉。

Alexander von Humboldt, the greatest naturalist in the early 19th century, made a comment after he visited the three mountains and the pleasant city of Mexico, and gave the comment: "the clearest region". Carlos Fuentes, Mexico's national treasure writer, named for his first novel, but it is not to be noted for Humboldt's comments; He even wrote at the end: "we are destined to stay here. We can't do anything about it. " The original chaos of clarity and historical deposition doomed Mexico City to be full of the tension of fiction and become the source of its capital of literature and art.

无处不在的弗里达

The ubiquitous Frida

弗里达博物馆及内部

Frida Museum and interior

弗里达·卡洛（Frida Khalo），这个被印在墨西哥钞票上的传奇画家，已经成为这个国家最具世界影响力的名片之一。她的故居，位于墨西哥城南部的科约阿坎区（Coyoacán）那幢著名的蓝房子（Casa Azul，弗里达去世后被改建为弗里达·卡洛博物馆），吸引着来自世界各地的仰慕者。蓝房子是由弗里达的父亲于1904年建造，采用了当时流行的法式风格。建筑师奥高曼（Juan O’Gorman）在1946年将原本的车库改建成了弗里达的画室，里面如今依旧还摆放着为她特制的绘画轮椅。卧室天花板上的镜子是弗里达的母亲帮忙安上的，以便卧床的女儿创作自画像。厨房的墙壁上，有用海螺拼出的弗里达和丈夫迭戈·里维拉（Diego Rivera）的名字。当然这里还珍藏着艺术家的名作，比如《生命万岁》（Viva la Vida）、《弗里达和剖宫产手术》（Frida y la cesárea）以及《我父亲威廉·卡洛的画像》（Retrato de mi padre Wilhem Kahlo）等。

Frida khalo, a legendary painter printed on Mexican bills, has become one of the country's most influential business cards in the world. Her former residence, in coyoac, south of Mexico City á n) The famous blue house (CASA Azul, which was converted to the Frida Carlo museum after his death), attracted admirers from all over the world. The blue house was built by Frieda's father in 1904 and adopted the French style that was popular at the time. Architect Juan O'Gorman, who converted the original garage into a Frida studio in 1946, still has a painting wheelchair designed for her. The mirror on the ceiling of the bedroom was helped by Frieda's mother to create a self portrait of her sleeping daughter. On the kitchen walls, the names of Frieda and her husband Diego Rivera, spelled out by conch, are used. There are also masterpieces of artists, such as Viva La Vida, Frida y La CES á Rea) and the portrait of my father William Carroll (Retrato de Mi Padre Wilhem Kahlo).

奥高曼还在城中的圣安琪区（San Angel）为弗里达和里维拉设计建造了他们的家和工作室，如今也被改造为两人的故居博物馆。两座独立的建筑被中间的一条天桥相连，人们认为这仿佛是对二人关系最好的注解。如今观众在大号的房子里可以看到里维拉的画室，据说这位伟大的艺术家在这里完成了绝大多数架上油画。此外还有他狂热的前西班牙殖民文化收藏，比如骷髅骨架、木制和陶制玩具等。

Mr. o'gohman also designed and built their homes and studios for Frida and Rivera in the city's San Angel District, and is now transformed into a museum of two people's former residence. Two independent buildings are connected by a bridge in the middle, which is thought to be the best annotation for the relationship between the two. Now the audience can see Rivera's studio in a large house, where the great artist is said to have completed most of the paintings on the shelves. There are also his fanatical collections of former Spanish colonial cultures, such as skeletons, wood and pottery toys.

阶梯剧场里那幅里维拉回到墨西哥后创作的第一幅壁画《创造》

The first mural created by Rivera in the stairway theater after returning to Mexico

除了他们的工作室和居所，位于老城区的原圣伊德方索学院博物馆（Museo Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso）也不要错过。当年的 里维拉应邀来此作画，初遇还是学生的弗里达。浪漫初见纵然令人神往，但阶梯剧场（Anfiteatro）里那幅里维拉回到墨西哥后创作的第一幅壁画《创造》（La Creación）存在感也极强——它开启了墨西哥壁画运动，是该国艺术史上当之无愧的丰碑之作。

In addition to their studio and residence, the former Museo Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso in the old city area should not be missed. Rivera was invited to draw here. He met Frieda, a student at first. Romantic first sight, even if fascinating, was the first mural created by Rivera in the anfiteato after returning to Mexico, La creaci ó n) The sense of being is also very strong - it has opened the Mexican mural movement and is a worthy masterpiece in the history of art in the country.

寻找巴拉甘

Looking for balagan

巴拉甘故居

Barragan's former residence

路易斯·巴拉甘（Luis Barragán），20世纪最重要的建筑师之一，他的作品全部都在墨西哥。在墨西哥城寻找巴拉甘的创作，自然是了解这座城市一项不可缺的必备功课。

Luis Barrag á n) One of the most important architects of the 20th century, his works are all in Mexico. It is a necessary lesson to find out the creation of balagan in Mexico City.

建于1948年的巴拉甘故居（Casa Barragán）位于墨西哥城的米格尔·伊达尔戈区（Miguel Hidalgo）。灰色的外墙很不显眼，只有一个突出的正方形高窗彰显着设计感。在这个建筑中，除了“巴拉甘式”的色彩、光影和空间感，更值得探索的是其中贯穿着他一生钟爱的数个主题：宗教、身体以及马匹。建筑师多年之后在普利兹克建筑奖颁奖典礼上说：“这座住宅完全是自传式的。”它也在2004年被联合国教科文组织列为世界文化遗产。

Casa Barrag, built in 1948 á n) Miguel Hidalgo, Mexico City. The gray exterior wall is very inconspicuous, only a prominent square high window shows the design. In addition to the "Barragan style" color, light and shadow and spatial sense, it is worth exploring in this building that there are several themes that he loves throughout his life: religion, body and horses. "This house is completely autobiographical," the architect said at the prizek awards ceremony years later It was also listed as a world cultural heritage by UNESCO in 2004.

墨西哥街头

Mexico Street

位于阿尔瓦罗·奥夫雷贡区（Alvaro Obregon）的洛佩慈住宅（Casa Prieto Lopez）也是巴拉甘私宅作品的代表作之一，同样有着他标志性的现代主义的粉红墙面、花园景观的大窗户、传统的墨西哥木梁架、精心设计的采光以及考究的内部空间比例。

The Casa Prieto Lopez in Alvaro Obregon is also one of the representative works of Barragan's private house. It also has his iconic modernist pink walls, large windows of garden landscape, traditional Mexican wooden beams, well-designed lighting and sophisticated interior space ratio.

与巴拉甘的故居相隔不远的吉拉迪住宅（Casa Francisco Gilardi）建于1976年，人们认为他在这个晚年作品上，对于颜色、材料、空间以及体量的掌控都已经炉火纯青，亮点包括庭院中的那棵应业主要求而保留的蓝花楹，从一侧窄窗透进满室光芒的长廊以及玩着折射和反射把戏的室内小泳池。

The Casa Francisco Gilardi, not far from balagan's former residence, was founded in 1976. It is believed that his control over color, material, space and volume in his later works has been very pure and green, including the blue and white couplets in the courtyard which are mainly reserved for the main demands, From one side of the narrow window into the full room of light corridor and play refraction and reflection tricks of indoor swimming pool.

蓬勃的文艺地标

A thriving landmark of literature and art

墨西哥当代艺术与设计独树一帜的根基在这个城市其实处处可见。比如墨西哥电信巨头卡洛斯·斯利姆·埃卢（Carlos Slim Helu）为纪念亡妻而创办的索马亚博物馆（Museo Soumaya）。建筑由养子、建筑师费尔南多·罗梅罗（Fernando Romero）设计，大小不同的28根独特的弧形钢柱构筑起的廓形与闪闪发光的金属鳞片的外墙，仿佛风中飘扬的璀璨裙摆。当然更迷人的还是其中超过66万件、总价值超过7亿美元的私人收藏——奥古斯特·罗丹举世闻名的雕塑《思想者》、达·芬奇曾遭失窃的《圣母像》、迭戈·里维拉的收山之作《胡之坦河》等，让它必然成为墨西哥境内游客访问量最高的博物馆。

Mexico's unique foundation of contemporary art and design is actually everywhere in this city. For example, Mexico telecom giant Carlos Slim Helu, founded the Museo Somaya Museum in memory of his wife. The building is designed by Fernando Romero, a son raising architect, and the profile and the glittering metal scale exterior walls of 28 unique arc-shaped steel columns of different sizes, which are like the resplendent skirt in the wind. Of course, more attractive is the private collection of more than 660000 pieces with a total value of more than $700million - augustrodin's world-famous sculpture thinker, the stolen virgin of Da Vinci, Diego Rivera's collection of mountains, the huttan River, etc., which makes it the most visited museum in Mexico.

图左：墨西哥城古运河景色

Picture left: view of the ancient canal in Mexico City

图右：市民在“亡灵节”的庆祝活动

Right: Citizens' celebration on the day of the dead

而另一 位私人美术馆的后起之秀则非Museo Jumex莫属，由热衷于当代艺术收藏的富豪尤金尼奧·洛佩斯·阿隆索（EugenioLópezAlonso）创建，英国建筑师大卫·奇普菲尔德（David Chipperfield）设计。

Another private art gallery, which is not Museo jumex, is the only one who is a wealthy contemporary art collector eugeniol ó Pezalonso was created and designed by David chipfield, British architect.

其实就连附近有“墨西哥城的比弗利山庄”之称的波兰克区（Polanco）也是时髦大于奢华。比如位于一幢20世纪40年代的老房子的概念商店Common People，可以说是巴黎买手店Colette的翻版。除了书籍、音乐、古董家具和大牌孤品，店主马克斯·费尔德曼（Max Feldman）和莫妮卡·费尔德曼（Monica Feldman）也是不少本地设计师的伯乐。而两层楼的Lago同样网罗了墨西哥本土和其他一些拉美知名设计师作品，从服装到配饰，以及家居用品应有尽有。Onora Casa则是墨西哥手工艺精品的集合，店里的家居用品、配饰和手工织物一概是传统与现代元素的融合。

Even Polanco, which is called Beverly Hills in Mexico City, is more fashionable than luxurious. For example, common people, a concept store in an old house in the 1940s, is a copy of Colette, a Paris buyer. In addition to books, music, antique furniture and big solitude, owners Max Feldman and Monica Feldman are also local designers' bole. Lago, on the two floors, also captures the works of famous designers in Mexico and other Latin American countries, from clothing to accessories, and home furnishings. Onora Casa is a collection of Mexican handicraft products. The home furnishings, accessories and hand-made fabrics are the integration of traditional and modern elements.

私人美术馆的后起之秀Museo Jumex

Museo jumex, the back-up of the private Gallery

再回到小说《最明净的地区》，着眼于未来，继承传统，接受外来精神财富以及推陈出新，就是作家寄望的墨西哥城的前途。

Returning to the novel the clearest region, focusing on the future, inheriting tradition, accepting foreign spiritual wealth and promoting the new, is the future of Mexico City that the writer hopes for.