走在刚果（布）首都布拉柴维尔的街头，你可能会遇到一些打扮得光鲜亮丽的“西装绅士”。他们走路自带BGM，在破旧的房屋前尽情地“拗造型”，将身处之地秀出T台之感……

Walking on the streets of Brazzaville, the capital of Congo (Brazzaville), you may encounter some "gentlemen in suits" dressed brightly. They walk with their own BGM, and enjoy the "tough modeling" in front of the dilapidated house, showing the feeling of T-stage in their place

这群人有一个专属词语——“萨普”。对他们来说，衣服是面对周围糟糕环境的武器，无论多么贫穷也不能丢掉对美好生活的追求。这一点不仅体现在他们的穿衣打扮上，也体现在为人处世的行为准则上——

This group has an exclusive word - "SAP". For them, clothes are a weapon to face the bad environment around them. No matter how poor they are, they can't lose their pursuit of a better life. This is reflected not only in their clothes, but also in their code of conduct——

非洲街头的“时尚达人”

"Fashion talents" on the streets of Africa

“皮鞋必须擦得锃亮，方巾必须叠得平整，发型必须一丝不乱......”在镜前好一番“捯饬”后，刚果（布）人佩雷拉才满意地踏出家门。

"The leather shoes must be polished, the square scarves must be folded smoothly, and the hair style must be intact..." after a good "measure" in front of the mirror, Pereira, a Congolese (Brazzaville) stepped out of the house with satisfaction.

对于佩雷拉和他的同伴来说，“盛装打扮”从来不需要什么理由，只不过是生活的一部分而已。

For Pereira and his companions, "dressing up" never needed any reason. It was just a part of life.

这群穿衣风格好像从“爵士时代”穿越过来的“西装绅士”，都是“萨普”成员。“萨普”系法语音译，意思是“格调营造者和优雅的人协会”。

This group of "suit gentlemen" whose dressing style seems to have crossed from the "Jazz Age" are all members of "SAP"“ "SAP" is a French transliteration, which means "association of style builders and elegant people".

7月31日，在刚果（布）首都布拉柴维尔，佩雷拉在摆造型。新华社发

Pereira poses in Brazzaville, the capital of Congo (Brazzaville) on July 31. Shen Jizhong

每到周末，“萨普”成员们纷纷在街头酒馆聚会小酌。聊到兴起时，他们更是随着音乐，在人群中间跳着独有的“舞步”，“炫耀”自己精心搭配的服饰。每当此时，普通街头仿佛秒变巴黎时装周的“秀场”。

Every weekend, members of "SAP" meet and drink in street taverns. When talking about the rise, they danced unique "dance steps" among the crowd with music and "showed off" their carefully matched clothes. At this time, ordinary streets seem to become the "show" of Paris fashion week.

“我父亲曾是‘萨普’里响当当的人物。在我三岁的时候，我就学习如何搭配服饰。”从小就对“萨普”文化“耳濡目染”的佩雷拉告诉记者，“萨普”算得上是刚果（布）的非物质文化遗产，“萨普”文化的血液在每个人的身体里流淌。

"My father used to be a big name in SAP. When I was three years old, I learned how to match clothes. " Pereira, who has been "influenced" by "SAP" culture since childhood, told reporters that "SAP" can be regarded as the intangible cultural heritage of Congo (Brazzaville), and the blood of "SAP" culture flows in everyone's body.

他说，要想真正成为“萨普”的一员，必须遵守西装“三色”原则，即西装上只能有三种颜色，不能多也不能少。

He said that to truly become a member of "SAP", we must abide by the "three colors" principle of suits, that is, there can only be three colors on suits, no more or less.

展现风度要从内在抓起

Show your demeanor from the inside

如今，刚果（布）和刚果（金）大约有6000名“萨普”成员。而他们当中大多数并非含着金汤匙出生的“富二代”，而是一群普通人。

Today, there are about 6000 "SAP" members in Congo (Brazzaville) and Congo (DRC). Most of them are not the "rich second generation" born with a golden spoon, but a group of ordinary people.

“别人挣钱买房，我们挣钱打扮。每当我们走在街头，‘回头率百分百’是我们最骄傲的时刻。”佩雷拉说。

"Others earn money to buy a house, we earn money to dress up. Whenever we walk on the street, 'looking back 100%' is our proudest moment. " Pereira said.

刚果（金）传奇歌手、“萨普”文化之王——帕帕·温巴曾说，“我常说一个人应当打扮得当、胡须干净、香气得体，这是我坚持向年轻人传达的观点。”

Papa winba, a legendary Congolese singer and the king of Sapu culture, once said, "I often say that a person should dress properly, have a clean beard and a proper aroma. This is my point of view to convey to young people."

当然，“萨普”也面临不少争议，比如被批评是没有物质基础支撑的虚荣。

Of course, "SAP" also faces many disputes, such as being criticized as vanity without material support.

但对于大部分“萨普”成员而言，优雅不只是停留在外在，展现风度要从内在抓起，严格遵守约定俗成的戒律：反对暴力、反对种族歧视、不能吸毒、不能酗酒、感情要专一、要自食其力。“我们的优雅和风度是由内而外的。”佩雷拉说。

However, for most "SAP" members, elegance does not just stay on the outside. To show their demeanor, they should start from the inside and strictly abide by the established commandments: oppose violence, oppose racial discrimination, do not take drugs, do not drink alcohol, be single-minded and support themselves“ Our grace and grace are from the inside out. " Pereira said.

在教育下一代时，他们会告诉孩子们从小养成良好的卫生习惯，注重仪容仪表，不能做有违道德的事情。

When educating the next generation, they will tell children to develop good health habits, pay attention to appearance and appearance, and can't do anything against morality.

如果在街上遇到冲突，他们还会揽下“劝架”的重任，连闻讯赶来的警察都“甘拜下风”。

If they encounter conflict in the street, they will also take the heavy responsibility of "Persuasion", and even the police who came to hear the news will "bow down to the disadvantage".

新冠疫情期间，“萨普”成员甚至担当起了社区“抗疫大使”的角色。

During the COVID-19, members of the "SAP" even acted as the community's "ambassador for epidemic prevention".

“我们平常都以身作则，倡导大家讲卫生。现在面对疫情，我们呼吁勤洗手，提高抗疫意识，这也是‘萨普’文化的一部分。”佩雷拉说。

"We usually set an example and advocate hygiene. Now, in the face of the epidemic, we call for frequent hand washing and improving the awareness of anti epidemic, which is also a part of the 'SAP' culture. " Pereira said.

火遍世界的节奏

The rhythm of fire all over the world

近年来，随着媒体不断聚焦“萨普”文化，全球网民对这群“西装绅士”们充满了好奇。在中国的社交媒体上，不乏时尚类博主对“萨普”文化进行科普和解读，引来网民点赞和评论。

In recent years, with the media constantly focusing on "SAP" culture, netizens around the world are full of curiosity about this group of "suit gentlemen". On China's social media, there are many fashion bloggers who popularize science and interpret "SAP" culture, attracting praise and comments from netizens.

在“知乎”平台上，一个标题为“如何评价非洲刚果的萨普协会”的提问下，网友们表达了对“萨普”文化的肯定：

On the "Zhihu" platform, under a question entitled "how to evaluate the sap Association in Africa and Congo", netizens expressed their affirmation of the "SAP" culture:

“每个人都可以有自己喜欢的生活方式，能承担就各自安好。”

"Everyone can have their own way of life. If they can bear it, they will be well."

“秩序、纪律、严格自我要求，美德也会感染到其他人。”

"Order, discipline, strict self-discipline, virtue will also infect others."

“讲究大过天，就是和日子较这个劲，不给自己沉下去的理由。”

"Paying attention to the big sky is to compare with the day and don't give yourself a reason to sink."

这则提问甚至引来出生于刚果（布）的NBA（美国男子职业篮球联赛）球员塞尔吉·伊巴卡回答：“你在街上可以看到一群刚果男人身穿西装，他们看起来清新优雅。在这里，我们认真对待服饰风格，我们知道着装的艺术。”

This question even attracted selgi Ibaka, an NBA (American men's Professional Basketball League) player born in Congo (Brazzaville), to answer: "you can see a group of Congolese men in suits on the street. They look fresh and elegant. Here, we take dress style seriously. We know the art of dress. "