三代名模为你回放三个年代的中国时装周The three generation of models replayed the Chinese fashion week in the three years
三代名模为你回放三个年代的中国时装周
新华社北京4月18日新媒体专电(记者张漫子)4月,中国国际时装周刚刚在北京落下帷幕,上海时装周就如火如荼拉开了大幕。
这是中国国际时装周走过的第20个年头。1979年3月,法国时装设计师皮尔·卡丹率法国时装表演团的第一场时装秀“扭”进北京民族文化宫,中国时尚由萌芽到蓬勃,走过近40年。如今的中国国际时装周,不仅迎来全球各地的新锐设计师发布时装设计,也迎接又送走了一代代独具风格、给中国T台带来惊喜与无限可能的模特,她们不仅是时装周一道亮丽的风景线,也是中国时尚变迁的见证者。
今天,让我们走近三位不同时期的中国模特,听听她们的国际时装周故事
王一诺:中国时尚元素正在融入世界潮流
第十二届中国超级模特大赛总决赛“全国十佳”王一诺走在2017中国国际时装周的T台。新华社发
今年3月底在第十二届中国超级模特大赛总决赛中跻身全国十佳、斩获“中国超模奖”的王一诺,今年首次受邀登上中国国际时装周的舞台。
“这是我的首秀,非常激动。刚上T台,音乐节奏一起来,我就觉得血往头上冲,再看到全场炫目的灯光,有种目眩神迷的感觉。”刚刚入行的王一诺今年16岁,但她的落落大方、风格鲜明,初露头角便吸引了不少业内原本“挑剔”的目光。评委现场点评她“气场强大,一走上T台就像换了个人,根本不像这个年纪的小孩。”
持续的比赛,每天不足5小时的睡眠,赛后的兴奋劲儿过去后,王一诺休息了一整天便满血复活,投入到国际时装秀的走秀中。“虽然正式表演时,在T台上走的步数都没超过100步,但走在T台上的感觉依然让我兴奋得不得了。这次首秀也让我更加坚定了自己从事模特这个职业的信念,我给自己打90分。未来我也会一步一步踏踏实实、走出自己的风格来。”
经过四天与中国国际时装周的“亲密接触”,王一诺说,中国国际时装周比想象当中更加国际化。她现场看到了很多国外设计师,并与一位日本设计师就某几件服装及改良和服的设计交流了意见。
她说,好的模特应该对时尚有着自己的见解,并将这种理解通过T台上的肢体语言呈现出来。所以“看秀”成为她的一大乐趣,巴黎时装周、米兰时装周一个都不落下。她不仅揣摩超模的台风,也留意最前沿的设计理念,还在假期协助设计师工作室搭配服装。“我能感受到,中国的时尚元素更多更密切地融进世界文化中,我希望将来自己能努力成为其中的一分子。”王一诺说。
付荣:越来越多中国面孔在国际T台找到位置
走向幕后的中国女模付荣发现,走向国际伸展台的中国姑娘越来越多,曾经“高不可攀”的国际T台不再被金发碧眼的洋面孔占据。吕燕、莫万丹、杜鹃、刘雯……中国模特已经开始进入了“明星时代”。
在付荣刚刚入行的2009年,“那时候中国的模特和时尚产业的衔接还不是很顺畅。整个模特行业追赶不上踏步向前的时尚行业,有点 扯后腿 ,加之行业缺乏对模特其他素质的培养,模特对自身发展的认识非常局限。”付荣说。
而2010年应邀赴加拿大担任北美新丝路模特大赛颁奖嘉宾、并参与行业内交流时,付荣发现中国模特行业悄然发生了变化。“一个非常明显的感触是,中国整体经济实力的提升和市场的不断成熟让很多国际大牌纷纷把目光投向中国,许多大牌为了打开中国市场而邀请中国的优秀模特作代言或拍摄广告,以此拉近与中国消费者之间的距离。”
付荣说,随着中国时尚产业的逐步完善,模特从业制度也越来越规范化,国内在选拔、培养和推广模特方面都积累了不少成功的经验。现在走国际秀的中国模特越来越年轻,很多基本在十五六岁就被国内公司直接推送到国际时装周与一流设计师合作,积累经验。因此,中国模特的自身素质也在不断提高,这几点的完美结合令中国模特越来越得到欧美时尚界的认可。
莫万丹:中国时尚赶上“好时代”
国际超模莫万丹为2017中国国际时装周旭化成发布走秀。新华社发
在2007年一些国际服装品牌的高级订制发布会上,赫然出现莫万丹高挑的身影时,在场的媒体惊呆了:这是继吕燕之后,在世界超模舞台上再次高度曝光的中国面孔。
从2004结束运动生涯、参加中国模特之星大赛,签约东方宾利,到如今成为中国女模旗帜性的存在,莫万丹称,十几年间,中国国际时装周发生了巨大变化。
“从演出场地、参演品牌数量,主办方设计师协会的组织都越来越丰富,也越来越专业化、精细化。”提及中国时装周的变迁,莫万丹用“惊喜”一词形容。
回忆起参加国际时装周的首秀,莫万丹颇有感触。“我记得那时刚刚比完中国模特之星大赛并获得冠军,在2004年10月23日,直接飞来北京参加时装周的面试。”
莫万丹告诉记者,那时候的T台还是“高高在上”的,距离地面大概有60厘米左右,现在基本是与观众席在同一水平面,拉近了服装、模特与观众的距离,这也表明时尚不再是触不可及的存在。
在舞美的设计方面,更多品牌朝着简约化的方向变化。莫万丹说,这样的设计让观众的注意力更集中在服装上,也有些品牌发布会的舞美将T台和发布主题营造为一个整体,创意性非常强,能够让观众强烈地感受到品牌发布会的主题。
“此外,设计师和品牌更注重整体造型感,每套发布会服装都会进行专业的造型搭配,有的品牌甚至会请专门的造型设计师进行搭配,给大众传播的不再是单独的服装。”莫万丹说,中国模特近几年来在国际上取得的成绩是空前的,而且未来还会越来越好。“现在是中国时尚的好时代,也是中国模特的好时代。”
来源:中新网
The three generation of models replayed the Chinese fashion week in the three years
Xinhua News Agency April 18th Beijing new media special telegram (reporter Zhang Manzi) in April, China International Fashion Week has just come to a close in Beijing. Shanghai fashion week has been raging like a raging fire.
This is the twentieth year of China's international fashion week. In March 1979, Pierre Cardin, a French fashion designer, was transported into the Beijing National Culture Palace by the first fashion show of the French fashion show. Chinese fashion has sprouted and flourished for nearly 40 years. Now China international fashion week, fashion design not only in the world of cutting-edge designers, also meet and bid farewell to a generation of unique style, to China T Taiwan surprise model with infinite possibility, they are not only fashion Monday, beautiful scenery, but also China's fashion change witness.
Today, let's get closer to three Chinese models of different times and listen to their international fashion week stories
The king of Connaught: Chinese fashion elements are being integrated into the world trend
T twelfth Chinese Super Model Contest Finals "national top ten" king of Connaught in 2017 Chinese international fashion week. Shen Jizhong
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At the end of March this year in the twelfth Chinese Super Model Contest Finals among the national top ten, won the "Chinese supermodel Award" Wang Yinuo, this year for the first time invited onto the stage Chinese international fashion week.
"This is my first show. It's very exciting. As soon as I got up on the T, the rhythm of the music came up, I felt the blood went up to my head, and then I saw the glitzy, dazzling feeling. " Just join the king of a 16 year old, but her liberal and dignified, distinctive style, make first appearance will attract a lot of the industry's original "picky" eyes. The judge commented on the scene of her "strong air, as soon as he went to T, it was like a change of person, not like a child at this age."
The last game, less than 5 hours of sleep every day, after the excitement of the past, the king of Connaught rest a day will be full of blood resurrection, into the international fashion show catwalk. "In spite of the formal performance, there were no more than 100 steps on the T stage, but the feeling of walking on the T was still very exciting. This first show also made me more firm in the belief that I was engaged in the model, and I gave myself 90 points. In the future I will step by step and step out of my own style. "
After four days and Chinese International Fashion Week "intimate contact", king of Connaught, China international fashion week is more international than imagination. She saw many foreign designers on the spot and exchanged views with a Japanese designer on the design of a few clothes and improved kimono.
She said that good models should have their own views on fashion and show that understanding through the body language on the T. So "watching show" has been a great pleasure for her, and Paris fashion week and Milan fashion don't fall on Monday. She not only figured out the supermodel typhoon, but also paid attention to the forefront of the design concept, and also helped designer studios to match the clothes in the holidays. "I can feel that China's fashion elements are more and more closely integrated into the world culture, and I hope to be a part of it in the future." Wang Yinuo said.
Fu Rong: more and more Chinese faces are located at the international T station
Go behind the scenes Chinese is paid to the international wing found that the runway China girl more and more international, T has "no longer be too high to be reached" ocean hole blonde occupied. Lv Yan, Mo Wandan, Rhododendron, Liu Wen... Chinese models have begun to enter the "star age".
In 2009, Fu Ronggang had just entered, "the connection between Chinese models and the fashion industry was not very smooth at that time. The model can't catch up ahead of the fashion industry, a lack of cultivation of industry and Che houtui, other model quality, understanding of their own development model is very limited." Fu Rong said.
And in 2010 was invited to serve as the North American new model contest presenters, Canada and participate in industry exchanges, Fu Rong found China model industry quietly changed. "A very obvious feeling is, and enhance the overall economic strength of the China market continues to mature for many international brands have set their sights on Chinese, in order to open the market and many big Chinese invite excellent models as Chinese endorsement or shooting advertising, in order to narrow the gap with the distance between China consumers."
Fu Rong said that with the gradual improvement of China's fashion industry, the employment system of models is becoming more and more standardized. Many successful experiences have been accumulated in selecting, training and promoting models in China. Nowadays, the Chinese model of international show is getting younger and younger. Many of them are directly pushed to the international fashion week by domestic companies at the age of fifteen and six, and have accumulated experience with first-class designers. Therefore, the Chinese model's own quality is also increasing, and the perfect combination of these points makes Chinese models more and more recognized by the European and American fashion circles.
Mo vendan: Chinese fashion catch up with the "good times"
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2017 China international supermodel Mo Banten international fashion week released into Xuhua catwalk. Shen Jizhong
In 2007, some international clothing brand couture conference, tall figure out there not Wan Dan, the presence of the media was shocked: This is after Lv Yan, the supermodel of the world stage once again exposed Chinese face height.
From the end of 2004, to participate in the sports career China Model Star Contest, signing Oriental Bentley, now become the banner of China female existence, not Wan Dan said
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