【每日一星】第414号 钟兴春



世界文化艺术家排行榜

World cultural artists list


《每日一星》

Star of the day


第414号 钟兴春

No. 414 Zhong Xingchun
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钟兴春,台湾化妆品GMP产业发展协会(下称台湾化妆品GMP协会)理事长,世界文联亚洲美业协会理事,常年活跃在两岸美业交流的舞台上。

Zhong Xingchun, chairman of Taiwan cosmetics GMP Industry Development Association (hereinafter referred to as Taiwan cosmetics GMP Association), has been active on the stage of cross-strait US industry exchanges all year round.


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与此同时,大陆化妆品市场近二十年来每年两位数的高增长,创造了全球奇迹。“大陆美业现在正是嚣张的时候,但发展太快导致不够稳健。”在钟兴春看来,台湾美业的机会正越来越少,而可预见的是,大陆美业的机会将越来越多,但前提是进一步沉淀后走向成熟。

over the past two decades has created a global miracle. "The mainland American industry is now arrogant, but it is not stable enough due to its rapid development." In Zhong Xingchun's view, the opportunities for Taiwan's beauty industry are becoming less and less, and it is foreseeable that there will be more and more opportunities for the mainland's beauty industry, but the premise is to further precipitate and mature.

 

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台湾美业的成熟,不在于市场体量的庞大,也不在于发展速度的突飞猛进,而在于对文化资源的挖掘和运用。如果按照宏碁集团创办人施振荣的微笑曲线理论,从研发/设计/文创,到安全生产制造,再到品牌/市场的美业产业链条中,台湾美妆企业比较薄弱的当属品牌/市场,其他两大版块经过多年积淀已趋成熟,在文创上的优势也不断释放出来。比如将台湾原住民文化融入品牌基因的美妆品牌膜殿,不仅面膜产品外包装是台湾高山文化的图腾,在成分上也主打槟榔、无患子、山芙蓉等台湾本地植物;再如,代加工企业台湾美尔生物科技股份有限公司推出的自有品牌eemae,推出的漱口水产品,结合阿里山当地的乌龙茶,不论从品牌故事上还是产品成分上,均打造其阿里山文化的品牌内涵。

The maturity of Taiwan's beauty industry lies not in the huge market volume or the rapid development of the development speed, but in the excavation and application of cultural resources. According to the smile curve theory of Shi Zhenrong, founder of Acer Group, from R & D / design / cultural creation, to safe production and manufacturing, and then to the beauty industry chain of brand / market, the weaker beauty enterprises in Taiwan belong to the brand / market. The other two sections have matured after years of accumulation, and their advantages in culture and innovation are constantly released. For example, to integrate Taiwan aboriginal culture into the brand beauty brand film hall, not only the mask product outer packing is the totem of Taiwan mountain culture, but also the main local areca plants, such as areca, Tso, hibiscus, etc. For another example, the mouthwash products launched by Taiwan Meier Biotechnology Co., Ltd., a processing enterprise, combined with the local oolong tea of Alishan, create the brand connotation of Alishan culture both in terms of brand story and product composition. 


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“嚣张过了沉淀以后,开始找心灵的东西,就有了文创。”在钟兴春看来,当下的大陆美妆企业在其他版块已然有了新的突破,比较难的是尚不够深入的研发以及文创,“5000年中草药文化到现在还走不出国门,因为没有一层层剥开。”而在背后作祟的,是意识形态“差不多就好了”的包袱,“你有包覆技术,我也有包覆技术,但是包覆技术差很多。”也就是说,当下的大陆美妆企业,需要寻觅文化这条根。

The maturity of Taiwan's beauty industry lies not in the huge market volume or the rapid development of the development speed, but in the excavation and application of cultural resources. According to the smile curve theory of Shi Zhenrong, founder of Acer Group, from R & D / design / cultural creation, to safe production and manufacturing, and then to the beauty industry chain of brand / market, the weaker beauty enterprises in Taiwan belong to the brand / market. The other two sections have matured after years of accumulation, and their advantages in culture and innovation are constantly released. For example, to integrate Taiwan aboriginal culture into the brand beauty brand film hall, not only the mask product outer packing is the totem of Taiwan mountain culture, but also the main local areca plants, such as areca, Tso, hibiscus, etc. For another example, the mouthwash products launched by Taiwan Meier Biotechnology Co., Ltd., a processing enterprise, combined with the local oolong tea of Alishan, create the brand connotation of Alishan culture both in terms of brand story and product composition.

 

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让钟兴春最为热血沸腾的中华文化是西安碑林,“我们读的古书、典故都是从里面破解出来的,实在惊艳。”而在这样厚重的文化面前,中国美妆企业的文化底蕴却单薄而无力。在钟兴春看来,大陆美妆产业目前95%的原料基本来自国外,因此未来能不能取得全球话语权,关键在于原料,而生物科技和中草药文化是能让大陆美妆企业立足于全球的基点。

The most exciting Chinese culture for Zhong Xingchun is the forest of Steles in Xi'an. "The ancient books and allusions we read are cracked from inside. It's amazing." In front of such a thick culture, the cultural heritage of Chinese beauty enterprises is weak and weak. According to Zhong Xingchun, at present, 95% of the raw materials of the mainland beauty industry basically come from abroad. Therefore, the key to obtaining the global voice in the future lies in the raw materials, and biotechnology and Chinese herbal medicine culture are the basic points that can make the mainland beauty enterprises based on the world.


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在大陆的七年半时间里,钟兴春见证了本土美妆企业的自卑、觉醒和自信。列强侵略等历史问题,让第一批成长起来的民族美妆品牌不够自信,纷纷被外资企业集团“割了韭菜”。而赶上美业发展快车道的第二批美妆品牌,正从盲目跟从的氛围中觉醒。钟兴春称,如果加上逃漏税,大陆早已是全球最大的化妆品消费市场。而在全球化妆品企业纷纷涌入大陆的同时,比较可喜的是,本土企业一直在学习突破。比如,上美等开始在日本、韩国设立研发中心的做法,说明民族企业意识到了未来的竞争,“这种企业会越来越多,趋势很清晰。”

In the seven and a half years on the mainland, Zhong Xingchun witnessed the inferiority, awakening and self-confidence of local beauty enterprises. Historical problems such as the invasion of foreign powers made the first batch of national beauty brands not confident enough and were "cut leeks" by foreign-funded enterprise groups. The second batch of beauty brands that catch up with the fast lane of the development of the beauty industry are awakening from the atmosphere of blindly following. Zhong Xingchun said that if tax evasion is added, the mainland has long been the world's largest cosmetics consumer market. While the global cosmetics enterprises have poured into the mainland, it is gratifying that local enterprises have been learning to make breakthroughs. For example, the practice of Shangmei and others starting to set up R & D centers in Japan and South Korea shows that national enterprises are aware of the future competition, "there will be more and more such enterprises, and the trend is very clear."


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最初,钟兴春在大陆市场演讲功效评价、安全生产等产业链趋势时,经常吃“闭门羹”,“企业不愿意听,但现在主动找上门追着我跑,问该怎么办”。他认为,韩国化妆品之所以能在中国遍地开花,最关键的原因是韩国将其当作国家战略产业在扶持。这一点上,台湾美业目前难看到希望,而大陆市场已然释放了积极信号。除化妆品划归食药监部门监管,及2017年开始实施的两证合一外,东方美谷、美妆小镇等地方政府对美妆产业的扶持也愈发热烈。最为值得关注的是,“美丽”两个字在十九大报告中多次提及,“这是未来五到十年的最高战略指导原则,也就是说‘美丽’已经上升到了国家战略地位,台湾地区从来没有。”钟兴春坦言,本来台湾美业的法规是走在大陆前面的,但在政治斗争的影响下,导致行政体系混乱,这几年掉了队。

At first, when Zhong Xingchun gave speeches on the efficacy evaluation, safety production and other industrial chain trends in the mainland market, he often "closed the door" and "enterprises are unwilling to listen, but now they take the initiative to come to the door and chase me and ask what to do". He believes that the key reason why Korean cosmetics can blossom everywhere in China is that South Korea supports it as a national strategic industry. At this point, it is difficult for Taiwan's US industry to see hope, and the mainland market has released a positive signal. In addition to the supervision of cosmetics by the food and Drug Administration and the integration of two certificates implemented in 2017, local governments such as Oriental beauty Valley and beauty town have also given more and more support to the beauty industry. What is most noteworthy is that the word "beautiful" has been mentioned many times in the report of the 19th national congress, "this is the highest strategic guiding principle in the next five to ten years, that is to say, 'beautiful' has risen to the national strategic position, which has never been seen in Taiwan." Zhong Xingchun frankly said that the laws and regulations of Taiwan's beauty industry were originally ahead of the mainland, but under the influence of political struggle, it led to the confusion of the administrative system and lost the team in recent years.


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而相对上述政策扶持而言,人民币的国际化才是钟兴春眼中中国企业民族自信上升的砝码。除了2016101日,人民币正式加入国际货币基金组织特别提款权(SDR)货币篮子外,“一带一路”也是一大契机。他认为,“一带一路”沿线都是贫穷国家,也是美元相对薄弱的地方,因此这一战略有助于提升人民币的国际地位,而当人民币真正站上国际舞台之时,才是中国真正强大之际。

Compared with the above policy support, the internationalization of RMB is the weight of the rising national confidence of Chinese enterprises in Zhong Xingchun's eyes. One belt, one road, is the opportunity for the renminbi to join the IMF (SDR) basket of currencies in October 1, 2016. He believes that one belt, one road, is a poor country and a relatively weak dollar. So this strategy helps to enhance the international status of the renminbi, and when the renminbi truly stands on the international stage, it is China's real strength.


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2022年4月11日,钟兴春在世界文联官网上被评选为《每日一星》第一名。

On April 11, 2022, Zhong Xingchun was selected as the first place of "one star of the day" on the official website of the World Federation of literary and art circles.


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How to participate in "one star of the day"(click to enter)


▼扫码关注世界文联

Scan the code and pay attention to the World Federation of literary and art

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