《第二洞天》


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桔林墨绿,杜鹃粉红,道观绛紫,远天灰白。

The orange forest is dark green, the Rhododendron is pink, the Taoist temple is crimson purple, and the sky is gray.


吸着一路的桔花香味,程先生带我来到了委羽山脚下看这里的大有宫。大有宫是个道观,传说台州的道教就是在这里发源的。

With the smell of orange flowers all the way, Mr. Cheng took me to the foot of Weiyu mountain to see the Dayou palace here. Dayou palace is a Taoist temple. It is said that Taoism in Taizhou originated here.


委羽山座落在黄岩城关南,山下-个自然村叫羽村,通向村里路口的一-座牌坊上写着“第二洞天”,题字的人落款任政。任政是本地人,当代著名书法家。

Weiyu mountain is located in the south of Huangyan City pass. At the foot of the mountain, there is a natural village called Yu village. On a memorial archway leading to the intersection of the village, the inscription "the second cave sky" is written, and the inscription is signed by the person in charge of politics. Ren Zheng is a native and a famous contemporary calligrapher.


村子不大,家家办厂,主要生产儿童自行车和配件,从错落有致的小楼房建筑上可以看出这村子的富裕。

The village is not big. Every family runs factories. It mainly produces children's bicycles and accessories. The wealth of the village can be seen from the scattered small buildings.


大有宫在村西的山窝,有三山屏围,翠竹拥抱,紫色大墙,飞檐高翘。 新修的山门,大门两端车轮般的圆圈里画着象征八卦的阴阳鱼,象两只黑白分明的大眼晴瞪着山外。

Dayou palace is in the mountain nest in the west of the village. There are three mountain screens, green bamboo hugs, purple walls and high cornices. In the newly built Mountain Gate, yin-yang fish symbolizing gossip are painted in the wheel like circles at both ends of the gate, staring out of the mountain like two black-and-white big eyes.


绕进山门,东北朝向的角门上横悬一匾: 大有宫。题匾时间是中华民国二十二年。

Around the mountain gate, a plaque is hung on the corner gate facing Northeast: Dayou palace. The plaque was inscribed in the 22nd year of the Republic of China.


里边的建筑也都是那个时期的,墙面破损,门窗朽败,神象蒙尘。一个驼背的道人坐在一条三条腿的长凳上,呆望着墙角旧瓦檐下的那片粘着-个飞虫的蜘蛛网。听到我们进来的声音朝这边望了-一眼,那目光分明透出了一种对我们凡夫俗子厌弃。

The buildings inside are also of that period. The walls are damaged, the doors and windows are rotten, and the gods are covered with dust. A stooped Taoist sat on a three legged bench and stared at the spider web stuck with a flying insect under the old tile eaves in the corner. Hearing our voice coming in, he looked this way - one eye, which clearly showed a kind of disgust with us ordinary people.


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程先生介绍:这里几次失火,里边的东西都没有了,前几年来了个道长,想重振山门,道教协会也大力支持,筹了一一些钱,修了迎面的山门。落成时把全国各地的道友请来不少,吃喝了好几天,香火也真的旺盛了好些日子,道士们都庆幸来了个好长门。谁知这长门也与时俱进,先是买了摩托车,后来又配上了能照象的手机。最后来又请来一个花枝招展的女秘书,说是帮助管账。也不知在哪个风清月朗的晚上,女秘书破了长门的童身,再后来他们就卷款而去,也不知到哪去双修双练了,留下了一堆欠施工队的滥账。听到这里我想起了一次在火车上听同卧铺的游客讲他在一个院寺的和尚室 里看到很多壮阳补品的事来。不禁感慨:现在找一片净土真的很难呢。

Mr. Cheng introduced: there were several fires here, and there was nothing inside. A Taoist priest wanted to revive the Mountain Gate a few years ago. The Taoist Association also strongly supported him, raised some money and built the mountain gate facing him. When it was completed, many Taoist friends from all over the country were invited. After eating and drinking for several days, the incense was really strong for many days. The Taoists were glad to have a good long gate. Who knows, the long gate also keeps pace with the times. First I bought a motorcycle and later a mobile phone that can take pictures. Finally, a gorgeous female secretary was invited to help manage the accounts. I don't know which sunny night, the female secretary broke the child body of the long door, and then they went away with money. I don't know where to double repair and practice, leaving a pile of accounts owed to the construction team. When I heard this, I remembered listening to a fellow sleeper on the train. He saw a lot of aphrodisiac tonics in the monk's room of a temple. I can't help feeling: it's really difficult to find a pure land now.


程先生是这里的文化名人,画得一手好山水, 书法也写得出色,当地很多匾额都是他手迹。

Mr. Cheng is a cultural celebrity here. He is good at painting landscapes and calligraphy. Many local plaques are his handwriting.


在残破的“骑鹤观”,他指着檐前苍朴大气的观名匾额告诉我,这匾是他朋友潘观森题写的,潘观森也叫三木,是当地著名的书法家,永宁公园里那些大顽石上的景观题字凡是没落款的都是他的手笔。可惜去年得了喉癌已骑鹤仙去了。

In the dilapidated "crane riding view", he pointed to the simple and magnificent view plaque in front of the eaves and told me that this plaque was inscribed by his friend pan guansen, also known as Sanmu. He is a famous local calligrapher. All the landscape inscriptions on the big boulders in Yongning park are his handwriting. Unfortunately, I got laryngeal cancer last year and rode to crane fairy.


看着这千年道观的残败,想到人生的无常,程先生现出了一种少有的凄然。

Looking at the collapse of the Millennium Taoist temple and thinking of the impermanence of life, Mr. Cheng showed a rare sadness.


在一堆干树枝遮掩的墙角,被岁月吞噬得有些斑驳的石碑上记载着这个道观的兴衰。经过文化革命字迹模糊。看不出名堂,听程先生介绍:

In the corner covered by a pile of dry branches, the rise and fall of this Taoist temple is recorded on the stone tablet swallowed by years. After the cultural revolution, the handwriting is blurred. I can't see what's famous. Listen to Mr. Cheng's introduction:


两千多年前,汉高祖刘邦的三太子刘奉林看这里水秀山青,东有九峰山输香送翠,北面永宁江平缓温柔,气盛物茂,白鹤成群,便来这里结庐炼丹。自号大有道人。一天,他梦到王母娘娘让他上天赴番桃盛会。就跨上- -只白鹤飞天而去,白鹤飞起时落下了-根羽毛就化做了眼前这座羽山。此后这里就成了道家的盛地,香火也不断地兴旺起来,民国时的那个掌门人很有学问,喜欢书画,经常请各地名家来搞书画笔会,为保留那些书画专门建了个藏画阁,里边有很多名家作品,吴昌硕、蒲华的字画都收藏不少,可惜文化大革命时全都让造反派给扫“四旧”烧了,那些字画就烧了好几天。现在-幅吴昌硕的字画就好几十万。程先生脸上的那种可惜的神情没拍照下来真的让我可惜。

More than 2000 years ago, Liu Fenglin, the third crown prince of Liu Bang, the emperor of the Han Dynasty, saw that the water here was beautiful and the mountains were green, there was Jiufeng Mountain in the East, and the Yongning River in the North was gentle, vigorous and luxuriant, and there were groups of white cranes, so he came here to make alchemy. He is a man of great virtue. One day, he dreamed that the queen mother asked him to go to the peach Festival. Then he stepped on -- a white crane flew away, and fell when it flew up -- and a feather turned into the one in front of him Yushan. Since then, it has become a prosperous place for Taoism, and incense has continued to flourish. The leader of the Republic of China was very knowledgeable and liked calligraphy and painting. He often invited famous artists from all over the world to hold calligraphy and painting clubs. In order to preserve those calligraphy and painting, he built a painting Pavilion, in which there are many works of famous artists, including Wu Changshuo and Pu Hua, Unfortunately, during the cultural revolution, the rebels swept away the "four old" and burned them, and those calligraphy and paintings burned for several days. Now - there are hundreds of thousands of Wu Changshuo's calligraphy and paintings. It's a pity that Mr. Cheng didn't take a picture of his face.


道观后院的山角下有个山洞,很是宽敞,能开进一辆吉普车,进洞几米远的地方供着吕洞宾的神象,烛光昏暗,有阴冷潮湿的感觉。再进几米有一铁栏挡住去路,栏里立石上写着:此洞可通东海,到那能见龙宫。

There is a cave at the foot of the mountain corner in the backyard of the Taoist temple. It is very spacious. You can drive into a jeep. LV Dongbin's divine image is provided a few meters away. The candle light is dim and feels cold and humid. A few meters further, there is an iron fence blocking the way. The stone in the fence reads: this hole can lead to the East China Sea and see the dragon palace there.


“真的。”程先生看我露出疑惑的神情告诉我。

"Really." Mr. Cheng looked at me with a puzzled look and told me.


“据说当年有个人想探一下这洞到底能通多远, 就挑了一担蜡烛进去了,走啊走,一担蜡烛点没了,也没走到头,以后就再也没人进去过了。”

"It is said that when a man wanted to find out how far the hole could pass, he picked a load of candles and went in. Go and go. A load of candles lit up and didn't go to the end. No one has gone in since."


我看洞两边都是用方石砌成,长满苔藓。私下猜想可能是过去打仗时军队的通道,历史上方腊起义就在这里,戚继光抗击倭寇也在这里,或许是那时的遗迹吧。

I think both sides of the cave are made of square stones and covered with moss. Privately, I guess it may be the passage of the army during the war in the past. In history, fangla uprising is here, and Qi Jiguang's resistance to Japanese pirates is also here. Maybe it's a relic at that time.


说起这道观的文物老程说最值得一看的是这里一 口大钟了, 传说当年有两个小孩在江边,一个放牛,一个浇菜。一场大雨过后从江的上游漂下来两口大钟,浇菜的孩子就用舀粪的勺子边划水边喊:“过来,过来。”那钟竞呼呼悠悠顺水漂走了。另一个孩子则用赶牛鞭子喊过来,过来。”

Speaking of the cultural relics of the Taoist temple, Lao Cheng said that the most worth seeing is the big clock here. It is said that there were two children by the river, one herding cattle and the other watering vegetables. After a heavy rain, two big clocks floated down from the upper reaches of the river. The child who watered the vegetables drew water with a spoon scooping dung and shouted, "come here, come here." The clock floated away. The other child shouted with a cow whip, "come here, come here."


第二口钟就顺从地漂了过来。

The second bell floated obediently.


原来道家的祖先老子出函谷关骑青牛就是手摇鞭子的,那钟也通灵气,从此就留在了这里。

It turned out that Lao Tzu, the ancestor of Taoism, rode a green bull at Hangu pass with a whip. The clock was also psychic and has stayed here since then.


遗憾的是那钟本来一雄一雌,漂走的那是雄钟,留下的是口雌钟。所以这里只能成为“第二洞天”了。程先生讲的很象民间故事,有些浪漫的色调。我看看眼前衰败下来的道观怎么也不能相信这里能是“第二洞天”。第一洞天在那里呢?当年的那口雄钟落在那里了吗?

Unfortunately, the clock was originally a male and a female. What floated away was a male bell, leaving a female bell. So it can only become the "second cave". Mr. Cheng's story is very much like a folk story, with some romantic tones. I look at the decaying Taoist temple in front of me. I can't believe it can be the "second cave". Where is the first cave? Did the male bell fall there?


双来雨了,云头有些发暗。

It's raining and the clouds are a little dark.


临走,我又回头瞅瞅角门.上的“大有宫”三个字心里嘀咕:刘邦的太子怎么起这么个俗气道名,人家都是什么“清风”紫阳”“玄机”"-类名,有点仙风道骨的感觉。

Before I left, I looked back at the corner gate The three words "da you gong" on the wall muttered in my heart: How did the prince of Liu Bang get such a vulgar name? What kind of "Qingfeng", "Ziyang" and "mystery" do people have? It's a bit like a fairy.


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一天,偶然看《周易》原来“大有”是《易经》里的一个卦名,这卦成象是:乾下离上。卦辞曰:大有者,宽也,柔得尊位,官禄曰实。掩恶扬善,丰财和义,广纳包容,成物之美,自天佑之,无不吉利。

One day, I happened to see the book of changes. It turned out that "Dayou" was a divinatory name in the book of changes. The divinatory image was: dry down and leave up. The hexagram says: those who have great power are also lenient and gentle. They are respected, and official wealth is realistic. Hide evil and promote good, enrich wealth and righteousness, be broad and tolerant, and the beauty of finished things is blessed by God.


原来这“大有”一词还真的有些来头。只是这卦辞里透出的逐名求利的味道和道家所追求的清静无为境界有些相去甚远。

It turns out that the word "da you" really has some origins. However, the taste of seeking fame and profit in this divination is far from the quiet and inaction realm pursued by Taoism.





2007-4-24 郝连成 浙江黄岩

April 24, 2007 Hao Liancheng, Huangyan, Zhejiang


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