古道西风瘦马，夕阳西下，断肠人在天涯。

Old road west wind thin horse, sunset, heartbroken people in the end of the world.

---马致远《天净沙秋思》

---Ma Zhiyuan's tianjingsha Qiusi

自古以来，有人类活动就有道路，道路也和世上的万物一样，或被岁月湮没，或旧貌换新颜，为当下世人所用。

Since ancient times, there has been a road for human activities, and the road, like all things in the world, has been obliterated by time or changed from the old to the new.

世上的道路数不胜数，而京西古道虽然早已失去了通衢交往的功能，但能让人们至今在这里望着鸵痕沉思，抚着树身遥想，实在该感谢元朝时生活在石古岩韭园村的一个叫马致远的文人所做的这首小令。

There are countless roads in the world. Although the ancient road in the west of Beijing has long lost its function of communication, it can make people contemplate and caress the tree. I really want to thank a scholar named Ma Zhiyuan who lived in Jiuyuan village of shiguyan in the Yuan Dynasty for this little order.

京西之山，统称西山。群山之中，遍藏乌金。元、明以来，京城百万人家，皆以石炭为薪。

The mountains in the west of Beijing are collectively called Xishan. Among the mountains, there is black gold everywhere. Since the yuan and Ming Dynasties, millions of families in the capital have been paid by charcoal.

加之这里出产石材，琉璃的烧制更是闻名京城，于是，拉煤运货的驼马成群结队，日复一日、年复一年地在山路石道上来来回回，久而久之便形成了京城到西部山区，再远至内蒙古、山西地商旅道路。

In addition, stone is produced here, and the firing of glass is even more famous in the capital. As a result, camel horses carrying coal and goods come and go back on the mountain roads day after day and year after year. As time goes on, the business and tourism roads from the capital to the western mountainous areas, as far as Inner Mongolia and Shanxi are formed.

京西古道以“西山大路”为主干线，连接着纵横南北的的各条支线道路，其中的中道、南道、北道为其主要组成部分。远古的烽烟、民族的交往、宗教的活动、筑城戌边以及古道、西风、瘦马等数不清的神奇故事，散落或留存在古道两侧，它是那个时代经济、文化的具体象征，从中我们可以深刻感受到时代的变迁和历史的足音。

The main trunk line of the ancient road in the west of Beijing is Xishan Road, which connects all the branch roads in the north and the south. The Middle Road, the South Road and the North Road are the main parts of it. Countless magical stories, such as the ancient beacon smoke, ethnic exchanges, religious activities, the border of the city, the ancient road, the west wind, and the lean horse, are scattered or left on both sides of the ancient road. They are the specific symbols of the economy and culture of that era, from which we can deeply feel the changes of the times and the footnotes of history.

从出苹果园地铁站坐929线公交车在-个叫野溪的站点下车。此处早已处在太行山余脉的环抱之中。问一路边的大姐告我说:去古道往前走，不过桥，靠左侧走2公里远。

Take bus 929 from Pingguoyuan subway station and get off at a station called Yexi. This place is already surrounded by the remaining veins of Taihang Mountain. Ask a roadside elder sister told me: go to the ancient road, do not cross the bridge, walk 2 kilometers on the left.

此时用古代记时法已是正晌午时，太阳象个急性子锅炉工，不停地把火炉般的炽热投向我踏上的这片妙峰山境地。

At this time, with the ancient method of time recording, it was already noon, and the sun, like an acute boiler worker, kept pouring the blazing heat of the stove into the wonderful mountain I set foot on.

一份生态旅游资料上说:妙峰山海拔近1300米，面积20多平方公里。旧名仰山，以“古庙”、“奇松”、“怪石”、“异卉”而闻名。因山势雄峻，五峰并举，妙高为其一，故亦称妙高峰。山上林木葱茏，风景优美，古多庙宇，有日出、晚霞、雾凇、山市等时令景观、有我国品质最好的千亩玫瑰花，以创建于明末的“天仙圣母碧霞元君庙”著名。

According to an ecotourism document, Miaofeng Mountain is nearly 1300 meters high, covering an area of more than 20 square kilometers. The old name is Yangshan, which is famous for "ancient temple", "strange pine", "strange stone" and "strange flower". Because the mountain is majestic, five peaks develop simultaneously, miaogao is one of them, so it is also called miaogao. There are many temples in ancient times, such as sunrise, sunset, rime, mountain city and so on. There are thousands of acres of roses with the best quality in China. It is famous for the "goddess of heaven Bixia Yuanjun Temple" founded in the late Ming Dynasty.

天下名山僧占多，明朝道长能把庙宇选在这里，当年的风光可想而知。如今以生态环保的目光放眼妙峰山，不能不令人有一种痛心的遗憾。凡能入眼的山上都为“靠山吃山”的居民奉献得满身疤痕了。

Most of the world's famous mountain monks, the Ming Dynasty Taoist priest can choose the temple here, then the scenery can be imagined. Nowadays, it is a sad pity to look at Miaofeng Mountain from the perspective of ecological protection. Every mountain that can be seen is full of scars for the residents who "depend on the mountain to eat the mountain".

看到铁板焊制的妙峰山三个大字，很有些象个饱经经沧桑的村妇胸前别的个斑驳胸卡。

Seeing the three big characters of Miaofengshan, which are made of iron plate, it looks like a village woman who has experienced many vicissitudes. There are other mottled chest cards in front of her chest.

一路感慨到了水峪嘴村后看到一个牌子，才知道当地政府已在2008年以前北京承办奥运会时就开始了注意生态环境的保护，封停了很多采石场和石料加工厂。利用马致远代言的广告做起了旅游生意。

After arriving at shuiyuzui village and seeing a sign, I realized that the local government had begun to pay attention to the protection of the ecological environment when Beijing hosted the Olympic Games before 2008. Many quarries and stone processing plants were closed down. The tourism business started with the advertisement of Ma Zhiyuan.

看到"关矿打造新环境”的口号才让我把一颗纠结之心放了下来，可那半秃的山坡得多少年能重披绿装，不由得让人又心生悬念。

Seeing the slogan of "closing mines to create a new environment" let me put down a tangled heart, but how many years will the semi bare hillside be able to put on green clothes again? I can't help but wonder.

在水峪嘴村过了一段京张铁路隧道，表现当年京西古道驼驴不绝，商铺稠集的市景浮雕便展:现出来。让我一-下就融进了明清时代那种古道的喧嚣。

In shuiyuzui village, there is a section of Beijing Zhangjiakou Railway Tunnel, which shows that the ancient road in the west of Beijing was full of camels and donkeys, and the city scene relief sculptures with dense shops appeared. Let me melt into the noise of the ancient roads in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

古道两侧这样的浮雕百十米长，尽显了当年的市井生活。

The relief sculptures on both sides of the ancient road are 100 meters long, showing the city life of that year.

再往前走就有了个收费的驿站，路边的指示牌上告知游人里边有一-段一千五百米长的保存完好的“古道”，当年运货骆驼的蹄窝脚印都依稀可见。

Further on, there is a toll station. The sign on the side of the road tells visitors that there is a section of 1500 meters long well preserved "ancient road", and the footprints of the camel's hoofs can be seen.

踏上京西古道山腰树丛中掩映着的“古道景区牌子，似乎提醒人们真正的古道还在那里。而要去那里，就要买门票了。

Stepping on the West Beijing Ancient Road, the sign of "ancient road scenic spot" hidden in the hillside trees seems to remind people that the real ancient road is still there. To go there, you have to buy tickets.

过去牌子后边的山梁，就是石古岩村。那里就有写“枯藤老树昏鸦，小桥流水人家，古道西风瘦马，夕阳西下，断肠人在天涯”的马致远故居了。

In the past, the ridge behind the sign was shiguyan village. There is Ma Zhiyuan's former residence, which reads "withered vines, old trees, crows, small bridges, flowing water, old roads, thin horses, sunset, heartbroken people in the end of the world".

郝连成

Hao Liancheng

2013-05-31北京通州

May 31, 2013 Tongzhou, Beijing