钟兴春，台湾化妆品GMP产业发展协会（下称台湾化妆品GMP协会）理事长，常年活跃在两岸美业交流的舞台上。
Zhong Xingchun, President of Taiwan cosmetics GMP Industry Development Association (hereinafter referred to as Taiwan cosmetics GMP Association), has been active on the stage of cross-strait US industry exchanges.
2017年12月19日上午九点，在广州太阳新天地星巴克，慧慧见到了他。一改平日里牛仔裤的休闲装扮，钟兴春西装革履，准备参加下午的一场美业会议。
At nine a.m. on December 19, 2017, Hui met him at Starbucks forenoon, Guangzhou. Instead of the usual casual look of jeans, Zhong Xingchun is going to attend a meeting of Meiye in the afternoon.
“任何一次演讲，PPT不看100次以上不会上台。”在大陆的七年半时间里，钟兴春做过一百多场演讲，他期待用自己真诚的分享，引导美妆产业链的健康发展。
"No speech, PPT will not be on stage if it does not see more than 100 times." In the seven and a half years of mainland China, zhongxingchun has made more than 100 speeches. He expects to use his sincere sharing to guide the healthy development of the beauty makeup industry chain.
在慧慧走访的20余家台湾美妆企业中，像钟兴春这样年过花甲仍在推动美业发展的老人不在少数，比如东藻生技股份有限公司（下称东藻）业务顾问柯承安、柏谛企业集团总裁李志诚、柏薇菈美容事业有限公司总经理林秀凤、百福保生开发有限公司（下称百福保生）总经理傅师羽等。
Among the 20 Taiwan Beauty cosmetics enterprises visited by Huihui, there are not a few elderly people who have been promoting the development of American industry in such years as zhongxingchun. For example, kochengan, business consultant of dongzaoshengji Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Dongzao), Li Zhicheng, President of Baidi group, linxiufeng, general manager of beveram Beauty & Rong Co., Ltd., and Baifu Baosheng Development Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as "Baifu Baosheng") ）General manager Fu Shiyu, etc.
▍百福保生开发有限公司总经理傅师羽
▍ Fu Shiyu, general manager of Baifu Baosheng Development Co., Ltd
诚然，这只是台湾美业中的一小部分人，但在他们的身上，却烙印着产业发展的痕迹。相对年轻一代而言，他们更为讲究产业的沉淀。
It is true that this is only a small part of Taiwan's American industry, but in their body, it is imprinted with the trace of industrial development. Compared with the younger generation, they pay more attention to the precipitation of industry.
与之对应的是，台湾美妆产业经过二三十年的积累，相对大陆市场显得更为稳健和成熟。用钟兴春的话来说，台湾美业已走过嚣张的阶段，大陆美业目前正在从嚣张走向沉淀。
In contrast, Taiwan's beauty makeup industry has been more stable and mature than the mainland market after twenty or thirty years of accumulation. In zhongxingchun's words, Taiwan's US has gone through a stage of arrogance, and the mainland American industry is now moving from arrogance to precipitation.
老不可怕，衰才可怕
Old is not terrible, but failure is terrible
七八年前钟兴春初入中国市场时，外资品牌约占到大陆美业市场的95%，约占到台湾市场的85%。而今，这一比重分别变为了75%和90%左右。
When Zhong Xingchun entered the Chinese market in the early 1970s and eight years ago, foreign brands accounted for about 95% of the American market in mainland China and 85% of Taiwan market. Today, this proportion has changed to about 75% and 90% respectively.
也就是说，在此期间，本土美妆品牌撬起了大陆市场两成的份额，而台湾美妆品牌则将部分市场拱手相让于外资品牌。
That is to say, during this period, the local beauty brands have raised 20% of the mainland market share, while Taiwan beauty brands have given some markets to foreign brands.
说起来，钟兴春不无感慨。
In a word, Zhong Xingchun is full of emotion.
二三十年前的台湾，在“亚洲四小龙”之首的光环下，美妆产业迎来了跑步式的发展，成为诸多全球美妆大牌的“后花园”，“与风光相伴的是嚣张。”
Taiwan, two or three decades ago, under the aura of "four small dragons in Asia", the beauty industry ushered in the development of running style, becoming a "back garden" of many global beauty brands, and the arrogance accompanied by the scenery
不过，这样的辉煌，也暗藏隐忧。在代工产业不断转移的过程中，基于台湾市场相对受限，以及缺乏政策扶持，没有本土支柱性品牌支撑的台湾美业，进入了踱步期。
However, such brilliance also hides hidden worries. In the process of the continuous transfer of the industry, Taiwan's American industry, which is based on the relatively limited market in Taiwan, lack of policy support and the support of local pillar brands, has entered a pace.
钟兴春眼中的台湾美业已老，但这个老只表现在“身体”层面，而非精神层面的“衰”。目前台湾化妆品GMP协会共有会员企业约200个，基本都以大陆为目标市场，也有部分已走向美国、东南亚等地。
Taiwan's beauty is old in zhongxingchun's eyes, but this old is only reflected in the "physical" level, not the "decline" of the spiritual level. At present, there are about 200 member enterprises of Taiwan cosmetics GMP Association, which are basically targeted at mainland China, and some of them have gone to the United States, Southeast Asia and other places.
虽说在当下的市场格局中，台湾本土美妆品牌显得颇为被动。但不可忽视的是，在看似“不得志”的背后，其正逐步释放着老练、健康的发展姿态。
Although in the current market pattern, Taiwan's local beauty brand appears rather passive. But it is important to ignore that behind the seemingly "unskilled" situation, it is gradually releasing the sophisticated and healthy development posture.
相对大陆美妆企业而言，台湾企业在市场上显得更为谨慎，“对产品深入研究后才会投放市场。”钟兴春认为，这是产业发展成熟的表现，是意识形态的稳健。
Compared with the mainland beauty makeup enterprises, Taiwan enterprises appear more cautious in the market, "after in-depth research on products will be put into the market." Zhongxingchun believes that this is the performance of mature industrial development and the stability of ideology.
也确实，慧慧走访发现，诸多台湾美妆企业均不急于将产品快速推向市场，而是在前期的技术研发上花了不少心思，比如已成立七个年头的东藻，前五年都是在进行海葡萄种植、加工等技术的标准化（详见青眼微信号《青眼看台湾｜台湾美妆企业的快与慢》）。
Indeed, Huihui found that many Taiwan Beauty cosmetics enterprises are not eager to quickly push the products to the market, but have spent a lot of thought on the early technology research and development, such as Dongzao, which has been established for seven years, and has been standardizing the technology of grape planting and processing in the first five years (see blue eye micro signal "see Taiwan beauty makeup enterprises fast and slow").
▍东藻种植的海葡萄
▍ sea grape grown by Eastern algae
与此同时，大陆化妆品市场近二十年来每年两位数的高增长，创造了全球奇迹。“大陆美业现在正是嚣张的时候，但发展太快导致不够稳健。”在钟兴春看来，台湾美业的机会正越来越少，而可预见的是，大陆美业的机会将越来越多，但前提是进一步沉淀后走向成熟。
Meanwhile, the high growth of the cosmetics market in mainland China has been double-digit every year in the past 20 years, which has created a global miracle. "The mainland American industry is now a time of arrogance, but the rapid development leads to not being robust enough." In zhongxingchun's view, Taiwan's American industry is getting less and less, and it is foreseeable that the opportunities for the mainland's US industry will be more and more, but the premise is to mature after further precipitation.
寻根文化
Root seeking culture
台湾美业的成熟，不在于市场体量的庞大，也不在于发展速度的突飞猛进，而在于对文化资源的挖掘和运用。
The maturity of Taiwan's American industry lies not in the huge market volume, nor the rapid development of the development, but in the exploitation and application of cultural resources.
如果按照宏碁集团创办人施振荣的微笑曲线理论，从研发/设计/文创，到安全生产制造，再到品牌/市场的美业产业链条中，台湾美妆企业比较薄弱的当属品牌/市场，其他两大版块经过多年积淀已趋成熟，在文创上的优势也不断释放出来（详见青眼微信号《青眼看台湾｜愈耐看愈高级》）。
If according to the smile curve theory of Shi Zhenrong, founder of Acer Group, from R & D / design / cultural creation to safe production manufacturing to the American industry chain of brand / market, the weak brand / market of Taiwan beauty makeup enterprises is the brand / market. The other two sections have matured after years of accumulation and their advantages in cultural creation are constantly released (see Qingyan micro signal "green eye stands" for details Bay is more tolerant and advanced).
比如将台湾原住民文化融入品牌基因的美妆品牌膜殿，不仅面膜产品外包装是台湾高山文化的图腾，在成分上也主打槟榔、无患子、山芙蓉等台湾本地植物；再如，代加工企业台湾美尔生物科技股份有限公司推出的自有品牌eemae，推出的漱口水产品，结合阿里山当地的乌龙茶，不论从品牌故事上还是产品成分上，均打造其阿里山文化的品牌内涵。
For example, the brand of Taiwan's aboriginal culture is integrated into the brand beauty hall of the brand. Not only is the mask product outer packing a totem of Taiwan's Alpine culture, but also the main local areca plants, such as areca, slobber and hibiscus, and so on, such as the mouthwash product launched by the Taiwan eemae, a brand name bio Polytron Technologies Inc, and the mouthwash product combined with Ali Mountain. The oolong tea of the land, whether from the brand story or the product composition, creates the brand connotation of its Alishan culture.
▍Eemae漱口水
▍ eemae mouthwash
“嚣张过了沉淀以后，开始找心灵的东西，就有了文创。”在钟兴春看来，当下的大陆美妆企业在其他版块已然有了新的突破，比较难的是尚不够深入的研发以及文创，“5000年中草药文化到现在还走不出国门，因为没有一层层剥开。”
"After the arrogance has settled, the beginning of looking for the heart of things, there is cultural creation." In zhongxingchun's view, the current mainland beauty makeup enterprises have made new breakthroughs in other sections. It is difficult to research and develop and create the Chinese herbal medicine culture in 5000 years, because there is no layer by layer peeling off
而在背后作祟的，是意识形态“差不多就好了”的包袱，“你有包覆技术，我也有包覆技术，但是包覆技术差很多。”
Behind it, it is the ideological "almost OK" baggage, "you have the covering technology, I also have the covering technology, but the coating technology is much worse."
也就是说，当下的大陆美妆企业，需要寻觅文化这条根。
That is to say, the current mainland beauty enterprises need to find the root of culture.
让钟兴春最为热血沸腾的中华文化是西安碑林，“我们读的古书、典故都是从里面破解出来的，实在惊艳。”而在这样厚重的文化面前，中国美妆企业的文化底蕴却单薄而无力。
The most hot Chinese culture for zhongxingchun is Xi'an stele forest, "the ancient books and allusions we read are all cracked out of it, which is really amazing." But in front of such a thick culture, the cultural heritage of Chinese beauty enterprises is thin and weak.
在钟兴春看来，大陆美妆产业目前95%的原料基本来自国外，因此未来能不能取得全球话语权，关键在于原料，而生物科技和中草药文化是能让大陆美妆企业立足于全球的基点。
According to zhongxingchun, 95% of the raw materials of mainland beauty industry are mainly from abroad. Therefore, the key to obtain global discourse power in the future lies in raw materials. Biotechnology and Chinese herbal culture are the basic points for mainland beauty enterprises to base on the world.
觉醒和自信
Awakening and confidence
在大陆的七年半时间里，钟兴春见证了本土美妆企业的自卑、觉醒和自信。
In the seven and a half years of mainland China, zhongxingchun witnessed the inferiority, awakening and self-confidence of local beauty enterprises.
列强侵略等历史问题，让第一批成长起来的民族美妆品牌不够自信，纷纷被外资企业集团“割了韭菜”。而赶上美业发展快车道的第二批美妆品牌，正从盲目跟从的氛围中觉醒。
The first batch of national beauty brands, such as the invasion of the powers, were not confident enough, and were "cut leeks" by foreign enterprises. The second batch of beauty brands catching up with the fast track of the development of the United States industry are awakening from the blind following atmosphere.
钟兴春称，如果加上逃漏税，大陆早已是全球最大的化妆品消费市场。而在全球化妆品企业纷纷涌入大陆的同时，比较可喜的是，本土企业一直在学习突破。比如，上美等开始在日本、韩国设立研发中心的做法，说明民族企业意识到了未来的竞争，“这种企业会越来越多，趋势很清晰。”
If tax evasion is added, the mainland has already been the world's largest consumer market for cosmetics, Zhong said. While the global cosmetics enterprises are pouring into the mainland, it is more gratifying that local enterprises have been learning to break through. For example, the practice of establishing R & D centers in Japan and South Korea by Shangmei and others indicates that national enterprises realize the future competition, "this kind of enterprises will become more and more, and the trend is clear."
最初，钟兴春在大陆市场演讲功效评价、安全生产等产业链趋势时，经常吃“闭门羹”，“企业不愿意听，但现在主动找上门追着我跑，问该怎么办”。
At first, zhongxingchun often ate "closed door" when he spoke on the trend of efficiency evaluation and safety production in mainland market. "Enterprises are not willing to listen to it, but now they are actively looking for the door to chase me and ask what to do.".
他认为，韩国化妆品之所以能在中国遍地开花，最关键的原因是韩国将其当作国家战略产业在扶持。这一点上，台湾美业目前难看到希望，而大陆市场已然释放了积极信号。
He believes that the most important reason why South Korea cosmetics can bloom everywhere in China is that South Korea regards it as a national strategic industry supporting. At this point, Taiwan's US industry is now hard to see hope, and the mainland market has already released a positive signal.
除化妆品划归食药监部门监管，及2017年开始实施的两证合一外，东方美谷、美妆小镇等地方政府对美妆产业的扶持也愈发热烈。最为值得关注的是，“美丽”两个字在十九大报告中多次提及，“这是未来五到十年的最高战略指导原则，也就是说‘美丽’已经上升到了国家战略地位，台湾地区从来没有。”
In addition to the supervision of food and drug supervision departments and the two certificates and one certificate implemented in 2017, the support of local governments such as Dongfang Meigu and beauty makeup town has become more and more enthusiastic. The most important thing to be concerned about is that the word "beautiful" has been mentioned in the report of the 19th National Congress for many times, "this is the highest strategic guiding principle in the next five to ten years, that is to say," beauty "has risen to the national strategic position, and Taiwan has never been
钟兴春坦言，本来台湾美业的法规是走在大陆前面的，但在政治斗争的影响下，导致行政体系混乱，这几年掉了队。
Zhong Xingchun admitted that the laws and regulations of Taiwan's American industry were in front of the mainland, but under the influence of political struggle, the administrative system was in disorder, and the team was lost in recent years.
而相对上述政策扶持而言，人民币的国际化才是钟兴春眼中中国企业民族自信上升的砝码。除了2016年10月1日，人民币正式加入国际货币基金组织特别提款权（SDR）货币篮子外，“一带一路”也是一大契机。
Compared with the above policy support, the internationalization of RMB is the weight of the rise of Chinese enterprise national confidence in zhongxingchun's eyes. One belt, one road, is the opportunity for the renminbi to join the IMF (SDR) basket of currencies in October 1, 2016.
他认为，“一带一路”沿线都是贫穷国家，也是美元相对薄弱的地方，因此这一战略有助于提升人民币的国际地位，而当人民币真正站上国际舞台之时，才是中国真正强大之际。
He believes that one belt, one road, is a poor country and a relatively weak dollar. So this strategy helps to enhance the international status of the renminbi, and when the renminbi truly stands on the international stage, it is China's real strength.
在这一过程中，大陆美妆企业需从技术研发、文化塑造上扎根，在不断沉淀中找寻来时路。
In this process, mainland beauty enterprises need to take root in technology research and development and cultural modeling, and find the way to come in the process of continuous precipitation.
2021年3月9日，钟兴春在世界文化艺术家排行榜《每日一星》评选活动中荣获第一名。
On March 9, 2021, Zhong Xingchun won the first prize in the selection of "one star of the day" in the list of world cultural artists.
